The Severn Way in Powys
The River Severn stretches 220 miles (354 km), from its source in the boggy peaks of Pumlumon (Plynlimon) in the Cambrian Mountains, to its mouth in the Severn Estuary.
The Severn Way trail follows its winding route, through beautiful Hafren Forest and Llanidloes, then taking in Powys' historic border towns before heading into England and following the Severn Valley southwards.
This section follows the tranquil Montgomery Canal trail, along a flat towpath through the countryside between Y Drenewydd (Newtown) and Y Trallwng (Welshpool). The River Severn flows parallel to the partially restored canal across the rural valley. Walk or cycle the trail in either direction, and return to your starting point easily by train or bus. Traveline Cymru offers a handy public transport journey planner.
Along the way you'll find fascinating moments of Welsh industrial history, radical cultural life, flourishing nature reserves and pretty Montgomeryshire canalside villages.
Explore Newtown
The Severn at Y Drenewydd is already wide and proud, weaving into town under the impressive, Victorian Long Bridge. But before you walk along it, head into town, where you'll find the town's industrial history celebrated very proudly. Take in the grandeur of the Royal Welsh Warehouse: this is the first place in the world where mail order began, thanks to the entrepreneurial nous of the local, and rather canny, Pryce Pryce-Jones, who used the local railways to send catalogues and his woollen goods all over Europe.
The Newtown Textile Museum nearby (seasonal opening), also shows how weaving and looming boomed here, and runs workshops in felt-making and spinning to keep that legacy thriving. And don't miss the stunning and genuinely progressive Oriel Davies Gallery, which hosts many exhibitions of contemporary art a year across its beautiful airy spaces. Its lovely shop and café also make it a great part of the community.
A selection of Newtown walking routes around the town and hills is available on the Y Drenewydd / Newtown website.
Radical politics thrived in Drenewydd too. Robert Owen was an early advocate of universal education, utopian socialism, and the Co-operative Movement, and the Robert Owen Museum hosts of Cymru's most fascinating small exhibitions. His plans for education for all and model communities take you into the mind of an extraordinary man, another Aneurin Bevan many years before his time.
Nature and wildlife along the Montgomery Canal
The Severn Way walk curls up into the hills north of Y Drenewydd, away from the river, giving great views of the valley. On the canal's waterside itself, though, you'll find some stunning nature reserves. In Pwll Penarth three miles out of town, you can spot kingfishers, little grebes and reed warblers. Further along, you'll find even rarer treasures.
Llanmerewig Glebe is home to a huge, managed crop of gorgeous, highly poisonous, yet beautiful, Autumn crocuses, while Dolforwyn Woods hosts rare woodland herbs and birds like pied flycatchers near the ruins of Castell Dolforwyn (Dolforwyn Castle).
Near Fron is the swampy Red House, teeming with uncommon wetland plants like Sweet Flag, while nearer Y Trallwng, Llyn Coed y Dinas swarms with butterflies and houses a resident bittern. Severn Farm Pond also provides an accessible spot full of boardwalks, frogs and newts.
Take a break in Abermule or Berriew
There are a couple of places to stop for well-earned food and drink along the way. The Abermule, recently beautifully restored, has a varied menu using local produce wherever possible.
The Welsh borders have always been inspiring places for art, and the fabulous work of Andrew Logan - all bright colours and dazzling glass - has its HQ in Logan's adopted village of Aberriw (Berriew). A huge British countercultural figure who influenced the work of Vivienne Westwood and Derek Jarman, his Andrew Logan Museum of Sculpture is full of stunning, inventive mosaics, huge eggs and moving models, right by the river.
Have an inspiring brew in the museum's café, or pop into one of the village's tearooms or pubs for food. The Horseshoes Inn, a bit further along the canal by Brithdir Lock, is family and dog-friendly.
Aberriw's riverside location also hosts two important chapels: one of only two surviving Wesleyan Methodist chapels in Cymru, Pentre Llifior, and St Beuno's, on a medieval site, with beautiful white marble Jacobean effigies.
Then weave onto Welshpool
As the Severn heads north it reaches Y Trallwng, where the town's handsome Georgian buildings tell their own stories of the riverside journeys of stone.
There's plenty to do in Y Trallwng, including visiting the splendid Powis Castle and Gardens, and the heritage Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway. The town also makes a great base for walking parts of Glyndŵr's Way National Trail.
The Severn then loops away into England at this point, before slowly widening its way south, but it's already shown us how much this river helped to shape Cymru. All you have to do is look where you least expect it, and you'll find so much more than you thought by the water.
Places to stay around Newtown and Welshpool
If you're enjoying going back to nature, stay at the dog-friendly Beeches, Porthouse Wood Cabins in Llanllwchaiarn – cook your food in your own kitchen, and if the weather's being kind, take it outside to entertain you by the river.
If you'd rather hang up your tea towel, the Severn Way is packed with lovely pubs, and in many, you rest your head afterwards. At Garthmyl, visit The Nags Head, an AA Rosette Award-winning, Grade II-listed five-star coaching inn with five lovely bedrooms. The western branch of the Montgomery Canal flows peacefully outside.
Our accommodation search has plenty of options in Y Trallwng (Welshpool) or Y Drenewydd (Newtown), including cosy B&Bs and rural holiday cottages. A bit further out, Drefaldwyn (Montgomery) is an old market town overlooked by the brooding ruins of Montgomery Castle. Strangely, the canal doesn't actually pass anywhere near to the town!
Useful information
Before you head off walking, Adventure Smart UK has plenty of advice on how to ‘make a good day better’, and we recommend you read it before planning your days out. Find out about appropriate clothing and footwear as well as more info on protecting and enjoying the countryside in the Countryside Code. If you have your hound with you please follow The Dog Walking Code.
Help Wales become the first Refill Nation by using nearby Refill Points to fill up your water bottle before you head off. Find out more, including how to download the free Refill app to find your nearest Refill Point on the Refill Wales website.