Surfing in Wales: The best surf spots for experienced wave riders

With around 1,680 miles of coastline and a unique blend of Atlantic exposure, tidal range, and rugged beauty, Wales offers a surfing experience like no other, with everything from beginner-friendly beach breaks, to world-class reef and point breaks for more seasoned wave chasers.

When we speak of ‘good surf', we’re effectively looking at two different definitions. One would be that of consistent waves, as in somewhere which breaks most days. The other refers to waves more elusive but perfectly shaped. Be it flying along a long point-break, or charging an inside-out slab, Wales can boast all the above.

First, where to be guaranteed a wave – the consistent spots. From north-west to south-east, there are plenty of sand-bottom breaks with enough of an Atlantic window to pick up a decent bit of swell. Foremost is the breathtaking horseshoe bay of Llangynydd (Llangennith), close to the city of Abertawe (Swansea) and home to three distinct zones of beachbreak. The further north along the stretch, the more high-performance the peaks get. Back east, Porthcawl’s Rest Bay is less than five minutes from a motorway and has options for all tides.

West of those zones, the Pembrokeshire trio of Freshwater West, Niwgwl (Newgale) and Porth Mawr (Whitesands) all sport a massive range of regular sand banks, the latter with particularly good shape for shortboard shredders – no wonder it is home to some of the hottest competitive prospects in the land right now such as Josie Hawke or the brothers Buick.

Heading north, further into Ireland’s lee, there are still options for a surf on most days, such as the sands of Y Borth and Tywyn, and finally Porth Neigwl, or Hell's Mouth as it is also known, on the tip of the Llŷn Peninsula. If the scenic drive between these isn’t enough to fire the imagination for a lifetime, the bluing waters and raw power will do it.

Beyond simply a regular wave, though, Wales is also a place where the rarer but more revered surfing conditions can be found on the right day. Before I look at where to find the more spectacular gems in Welsh surfing, it’s worth also noting a few spots that can boast both consistency and throw up a cover-shot spectacle on their day, such as the whopping peaks of Aberafan (Aberavon) in Port Talbot or the Harbour Trap at Aberystwyth. Be polite to the locals, and take turns, if you paddle out at either of these on a good day!

Rarer, but just as valuable, are the showpiece spots, and this is where the roaming surfer can really earn their rewards. Once the Atlantic shoves a named storm this way, nooks and crannies across the land can light up like Indo, if you don’t mind a bit of neoprene and a wind-blasted complexion. Perhaps the most famous spots still in the sand-bottom category would be De Aberllydan (Broadhaven South) near Stackpole, and believe it or not, Dinbych-y-pysgod (Tenby) South Beach. On a day when the sun-seekers are back in the office for the winter, a big sou-westerly can send dredging barrels to the hardcore faithful. Although well known, these are also spots to approach with careful expectations. World class surfers compete for world class waves on such days, and while visiting surfers are welcomed, getting the wave of the day is often the privilege of experienced veterans. Watch, listen and take your chances when they come! A similarly impressive wedge-shaped tube-fest exists on the Llŷn in North Wales, too, if you keep your ears to the ground and ask the right questions.

As for reefs and points – traditionally the most fabled of finds for the international explorer – Wales has many. The crucial factor is our extraordinary range of winds and tides. A howling onshore one side of a town or headland can be a perfect offshore the other. There is no better example of this than the reefs along the south Gower, west of Porth Eynon, where a winding coastline of crags hides over half a dozen world-class gems in the right conditions. When tide and wind harmonise, the possibilities are immense. In stormy conditions, the talent-hotbed of Bae Langland (Langland Bay) turns through points, reefs and beachbreak peaks all within a single tide. If they’ve got shore leave from their globe-trotting occupations, you can expect company from world class professionals Patrick Langdon-Dark and Alys Barton, among others.

The Glamorgan Heritage Coast is also similarly blessed for reef and point-breaks and, as with Gower, the knack is to research your wind and tide states. Such an approach has allowed riders like multiple national champion Logan Nicol to hone his trademark style. Be prepared to strike out on foot in search, and the rewards are there at the end of the trail. For car park amenities and a more sociable session, the surf towns of Porthcawl and Llanilltud Fawr (Llantwit Major) are located either end of this coast, both with quality point breaks – especially in winter. A similar, but much more isolated variety of reef breaks exists in Pembrokeshire too, although for some of those the hiking boots will need to be swapped for a well-piloted boat. The adventure is there to be had, nevertheless.

Finally, I have to mention the often-overlooked shores of Ceredigion, which are equally blessed with point breaks. These, however, are probably the rarest and toughest to score, as the prevailing south-west wind is less suited to the best of them. The rarer phenomenon of a south-easterly can groom awe-inspiring lines of swell all the way up to North Wales and the start of the Eryri (Snowdonia) mountains. Here, the fickle nature is half the thrill.

Which brings me to the key piece of advice I’d offer any visitor to Wales in search of Waves, besides making sure you’ve got the right wetsuit for the season. Keep your eyes peeled, and stay open to the discovery, because here is a place where the conditions can change quicker than anywhere I’ve seen on earth. What can look like a wind-torn and ravaged outcrop of rocks or reef can turn, minutes later, into the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. That’s often with an actual rainbow overhead, too. Yes, the thrill of the chase can make surfing in Wales one of the most exciting trips you’ll take. If conditions turn awry, there’s plenty of fabled Cymru hospitality to keep you content, but even then, don’t look away from the ocean for too long. The session of your life, in a secluded spot and away from the hordes, could be the next changing wind away.