At around 75 miles (122km), the River Teifi is one of Wales’ longest rivers, trickling down from the Cambrian Mountains and winding its way through the counties of Ceredigion and Carmarthenshire. Start your tour of the Teifi's source at Llyn Teifi, a beautiful lake which forms part of the Teifi Pools.

The river then flows through the Teifi Valley, becoming a route of passage for salmon and wild trout, cascading over the falls at Cenarth and through the bridge of Cardigan Castle.  

What to see

Teifi Pools, Cambrian Mountains

The source of the River Teifi is found in the so-called 'green desert of Wales', known as the Cambrian Mountains. Llyn Teifi and the Teifi Pools sit in a mass expanse of open valley, the perfect place to escape the busy bustle of town or city life. You can take a six-mile walk between and around the lakes, and there are plenty of spots to sit, breathe, and take it all in. Take a map with you, as many of the walking routes aren’t signposted. To get there, head towards Llanwrthwl on the A470, turn off and take a single track road through the Elan and Claerwen valleys following signs for Llyn Teifi. 

Two large mountain top lakes among green moorland.
A narrow track alongside a mountain top lake.

Teifi Pools, Ceredigion, Mid Wales

Salmon leap at Cenarth Falls

The River Teifi is a fly-fisher's paradise, rich in salmon and wild trout. In autumn, salmon can be spotted leaping Cenarth Falls by the Old Mill, a building that has overlooked the Teifi since the 13th century. For hundreds of years, the migration of fish in the river has provided income for local Welsh fishers, and there are plenty of spots in Cenarth and nearby Castellnewydd Emlyn (Newcastle Emlyn) to try some for yourself – best served with a side of proper chips and mushy peas.

Shallow waterfalls in a wide river below a building.

Cenarth Falls, Ceredigion, Mid Wales

What to eat and drink

The delicacies of Llandudoch (St Dogmaels)

Downstream from Cardigan, in the heart of Llandudoch village, just a mile into Pembrokeshire, you will find a famous local produce market. Farmers, fishers, bakers, butchers, and cheese makers from local lands bring their finest foods every Tuesday morning from 9am to 1pm to this market, overlooking the working watermill and pond. You can even buy bread made from the stone ground flour.

While you're there, grab a picnic and head to St Dogmaels Abbey. These extensive ruins now host a visitor centre and museum, so perfect for finding out some local history. Or find a spot in the 13th century ruins to contemplate your next adventure.

A ruined stone abbey with varying height walls.

The romantic ruins of St Dogmaels Abbey, Llandudoch, Pembrokeshire, West Wales

Pizza from GRAIN Cardigan

In Aberteifi (Cardigan) at the mouth of the Teifi, you'll find a tipi on the riverbank. Serving home-made pizzas cooked to perfection in a hand built, wood fired oven. GRAIN Cardigan is an inspired little place, serving food every day from 12pm – 9pm (bar open til 10ish) in peak season. In summer you can enjoy a drink on the quay while you wait for a crisp slice of mouth-watering goodness.

Enjoy small plates in Aberteifi

Choose from several delicious small plates and tapas options at Yr Hen Printworks. The restaurant, regularly awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand and featuring in the Michelin Guide, uses local ingredients such as Welsh lamb, beef, and fish from the River Teifi.

table in restaurant with vases of berries.
wooden table with tapas dishes and glasses of red wine.

Yr Hen Printworks, Aberteifi, Mid Wales

Local Welsh ale 

Before the turn of the 20th century, there were more than 50 licensed premises in Aberteifi... and a few hidden bars known only to locals as ‘smwglins’, where beers was brewed and sold in secret. These days Aberteifi’s Mantle Brewery isn’t exactly the best kept secret, with ale available in local establishments and to buy online.

What to do

Watersports and more

When the Teifi is in full flow, there really is no other way to travel than on the water, with your friends. You can book on a canoeing, kayaking or whitewater tubing trip through Adventure Beyond.

Fish for your supper

Commonly known as the ‘Queen of the Game Fishing Rivers’, the Teifi gives experienced and first-time anglers a wealth of shallow waters, waterfalls, and pools to cast their rods in. You’ll need to be accompanied by a licensed fisher before you start catching salmon or trout, but there are plenty of companies providing river guides or fishing trips – a good starting spot would be the Teifi River Guides, the Teifi Trout Association, or the Llandysul Angling Association.

An estuary meeting the sea overlooking a small town.

Teifi estuary at Gwbert, near Aberteifi, Ceredigion, Mid Wales

Use our accommodation search to find your ideal place to stay near the River Teifi, including cottages, country homes and campsites.

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