Let me take you on a journey, igam-ogam (or zig-zagging) through the Cambrian Mountains in Mid Wales. Our trip goes from southern Llanllawddog across the region to Dylife in the north, one of the most spectacular locations to watch a sunset in the whole country.
We have some of the darkest night skies in Europe, and with nine Milky Way Class Dark Sky Discovery Sites and an International Dark Sky Park, you're spoilt for choice for places to enjoy our pristine night skies!
Hit the road: towns, villages and points of interest
Driving west towards Caerfyrddin (Carmarthen) on the M4 and A48, you’ll see the land rising to the north — the first hint of the Cambrian Mountains. This peaceful corner of Carmarthenshire links the Teifi Valley with the region’s gentle uplands, where villages, riverside paths and forested lanes mark a soft transition from lowland fields to open mountain scenery.
In this quiet corner of Carmarthenshire, the landscape shifts from lowland fields to rising uplands as you move towards the Cambrian Mountains. Pencader marks the first change in terrain, with river‑valley lanes leading into open countryside. Llanllawddog follows with a strong sense of rural heritage, from its 12th‑century church to woodland paths linking into Brechfa Forest. Llanybydder offers a traditional market‑village pause on the River Teifi before the scenery opens towards Mid Wales. Finally, Brechfa provides forest‑bathing spots, waterfalls, mountain‑bike trails and wide viewpoints—a gentle gateway to the western edge of the Cambrian Mountains.
For sunset, head to the community-built peace cairn at the summit of Mynydd Llanfihangel Rhos-y-Corn. As night falls, look up for an incredible view of the stars. Nearby Llanllwni Mountain is the first of our Dark Sky Discovery Sites - an incredible stargazing venue.
Talyllychau is a small village known for its iconic ruins of Talley Abbey, set beside the calm waters of Talley Lakes, which you can enjoy on the way to the town of a Llanbedr Pont Steffan (Lampeter). The university grounds are open to the public and perfect for a leisurely stroll. Welsh poet Dylan Thomas often visited the town, and keen fans can follow his trail. Cae Hir Gardens is recommended for refreshments and more walking – grown on a slope, this attraction has an interesting Dutch history and is full of plants, flowers and trees.
Pumsaint is next, named after the five saints that came to the area many years ago, but today's visitors are most likely to come for a tour of the Dolaucothi Gold Mines. The site sits beside the River Cothi, with woodland paths around the mine workings. Take a step back in time and imagine the Romans who were here looking for gold nearly two thousand years ago.
Llandovery is a wonderful town, but I might be biased in that opinion as it is where I'm from originally! This colourful market town has boutique shops and great places to stay (don’t just take my word for it, even Lord Nelson stayed in one of the hotels here!). The glistening steel statue of Llywelyn ap Gruffydd Fychan towers over the town, in memory of this Welsh resistance hero, making an ideal photo opportunity.
Just above the town, the ruins of Llandovery Castle and riverside walks along the Tywi add a quieter historical note to a visit.
Make sure to use the Heart of Wales Railway, with its community-run station that's looked after by local volunteers. Take the train up to Cynghordy Viaduct, which is more than 150 years old. I like to look out of the window here and pretend I'm Harry Potter, going to Hogwarts (it's an uncannily similar landscape!).
At some point in life you'll probably have heard of the World Alternative Games, which are held in Llanwrtyd (Llanwrtyd Wells). Brave souls battle for titles like World Bogsnorkelling champion, arguably the most coveted title in world sports. Although it's a small place, there are plenty of places to stay, eat and things to do in Llanwrtyd.
Driving towards Tregaron you'll head through Abergwesyn Pass, an epic u-shaped valley carved out of the landscape by glaciers. The steep section is known locally as the ‘Devil's Staircase’, a challenge for many road vehicles over the years, let alone the many cyclists who use it! The summit gives magnificent views of the Abergwesyn Valley.
Llyn Brianne Reservoir and Dam near Cilycwm and Rhandirmwyn is another Dark Sky Discovery Site - perfect for star gazing, with barely any light pollution. It's also a lovely place for a walk or a cycle during the day.
Home to many birds, mammals and plants, RSPB Gwenffrwd-Dinas Nature Reserve also has one of the most famous caves in Wales, where local legend Twm Siôn Cati hid from authorities. The steep wooded gorge and waterfalls add drama to the landscape. My favourite time to visit is May and June, when the carpets of bluebells are in blossom.
Continuing on the trail of Twm Siôn Cati brings you to Tregaron, his birthplace, where you will find a wooden statue commemorating the local highwayman, poet, and rascal. There's plenty more to do here - marvel at some Welsh gold at the Rhiannon Centre, enjoy wildlife at Cors Caron Nature Reserve, one of the largest raised peat bogs in Britain. Walk or bike along the Ystwyth Trail, following the track of the old Great Western Railway line.
Pontrhydfendigaid is a small community village known locally as Bont. It's the birthplace of the first Welsh man to climb Everest, Caradoc Jones. Looking around, you can probably see his love of mountains started from a young age.
If you're after a relaxing mountain walk, go from Strata Florida Abbey to the source of the River Teifi. Pop into the abbey's visitor centre to learn about its history and the spiritual and cultural significance of the surrounding area. From here, a short route also heads towards the Teifi Pools at the river’s source.
Alternatively, head to Coed y Bont, another Dark Sky Discovery Site, and a great location for spotting the Milky Way in the night sky - perfect views with no light pollution. There are also wonderful woodland walks proudly looked after by the local community.
Pont-rhyd-y-groes has a history and heritage of lead mining, and you can still see the water wheel turning in the village. From here you can visit the picturesque Hafod Estate, full of walks and cycle trails, waterfalls and caverns, and even a place where you can stroll through a cave and see and the water tumbling down on the other side. Hafod’s 18th‑century designed landscape also frames views along the Ystwyth valley.
Pontarfynach (Devil's Bridge) is so-called after the devil visited the site and tried to fool a local woman into giving her soul. She got the better of him, and in return he had to build her a bridge. Today, you can walk across one of three bridges at the site and enjoy the amazing waterfalls. For some food or a drink I'd recommend going to the Hafod, it is a grade two listed building and located only steps away from waterfalls.
You can reach Ponterwyd, a small market town, via another National Forest for Wales site, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest. Enjoy mountain bike and walking trails, little ponds and lakes, plus the very popular Red Kite Feeding Centre. Stand by to watch as flocks of up to 200 kites swoop in the sky above you, looking for their lunch. It's an incredible experience that must be seen to be believed!
At 752 metres (2,468 feet), Pumlumon Fawr is the highest peak in the Cambrian Mountains. From the summit, you can see Yr Wyddfa and Cader Idris to the north, Pen Y Fan in the south and the full sweep of Cardigan Bay to the west.
Cwmystwyth Valley is another tremendous u-shaped valley that heralds your arrival into a new landscape. Continue along the scenic route to the Elan Valley, full of amazing reservoirs, dam walls and natural features. Make sure to stop and admire the view!
Head for the Elan Valley visitor centre for refreshments and information about the International Dark Skies Park (the only one in Wales). It's incredibly popular with astronomers, astro-photographers and anyone who wants a good view of stars, planets, and constellations. The Northern Lights have even been viewed here. A dark sky observing hut has recently been built so people can view the stars at organised events.
Rhayader is a lovely place to browse shops, walk along the River Wye, or pop into a coffee house or tea rooms to refuel. For the more adventurous, check out the BMX pump track (even if you don’t fancy jumping on the back of a bike yourself, it’s good viewing). Nearby, Gigrin Farm is known for regular red kite feeding.
Travel north west on the A470 along The Cambrian Way to Gilfach Nature Reserve. You can be walking quietly along the River Marteg, when suddenly a huge salmon leaps from the water! November is the best time to see this.
Llanidloes is the first town on the River Severn. Stop for a walk around Hafren Forest, the fourth National Forest for Wales. If you fancy a spot of fishing or boating, the nearby Llyn Clywedog Reservoir is a lovely peaceful setting. Make sure to stop by the Wynford Vaughan-Thomas lookout point. Thomas was a well-loved Welsh broadcaster and loved nature. From his viewpoint you can see the whole of Eryri National Park.
Perfectly positioned for the National Trail Glyndwr’s Way and the challenging Cambrian Way long distance trail, the northern Cambrian Mountains communities of Dylife and Staylittle ooze local industrial heritage and local legends. Nearby, visit the impressive peak of Foel Fadian (564 metres / 1850 feet) and the Glaslyn Nature Reserve.
Keep safe
Always check the weather forecast and prepare your clothing and kit carefully. Mountains can be dangerous in fog, winds and storms. On hot days you’ll need sunblock and plenty of water.
- Adventure Smart UK has plenty of advice on how to ‘make a good day better’, and we recommend you read it before planning your days out.
