My favourite ride in Wales is a superb 95 km loop through the rolling countryside of Carmarthenshire, combining quiet country roads, a few challenging climbs - they can't be avoided in Wales! - and some of the finest scenery in West Wales. With just over 1,100 metres of elevation gain, this route offers a rewarding day in the saddle without ever feeling overwhelmingly mountainous.

Starting in Carmarthen, from Carmarthenshire Museum the route heads east, on to the new Tywi Valley bike path, passing some beautiful historic castles before reaching the town of Llandeilo. 

Ruined hilltop castle overlooking a bridge and the River Tywi valley.
Cyclists riding along a quiet country lane through the Tywi Valley countryside

Tywi Valley Path, Carmarthenshire, West Wales

Nestled in the beautiful Tywi Valley, Llandeilo is an ideal coffee stop, with a selection of independent cafes and bakeries perfect for refuelling before the climbing begins. My pick would be either Lolfa, or Pitchfork and Provision; both are super bike friendly and serve great local coffee.

display in show with pitchfork, gold wreath and bread in wooden crates.
sign on pillar.

Pitchfork and Provision, Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire, West Wales

From Llandeilo, the route ventures deeper into the hills, passing through picturesque Welsh villages. Once you pass Bethlehem, you will take a right turn and start a gradual incline up the Black mountain. You will be treated to sweeping views across the western edge of Bannau Brycheiniog National Park, featuring a series of steady climbs and fast, flowing descents that provide plenty of variety.

Two cyclists riding along a quiet country road through open upland countryside.
Cyclists riding along a winding road through the rolling hills of rural Wales
Cyclists climbing a rural road through rolling hills and open Welsh landscape.

Black Mountain climb, Carmarthenshire, West Wales

The roads are generally quiet and surrounded by farmland, woodland and open moorland, making this a route that feels wonderfully remote despite never being far from local amenities. 

Another great pit stop is Coaltown Coffee roastery in Ammanford before the final rolling kilometres back towards Carmarthen. Expect stunning Welsh scenery, rewarding climbing and a memorable day on the bike.

barista prepares a coffee behind a dark, industrial‑style café counter with chrome taps and warm hanging lights.
A close-up of steamed milk being poured into a cup of coffee to create latte art and hand with tattoo and ring.

Coaltown Coffee, Rhydaman (Ammanford), West Wales

FAQs about Manon's Carmarthenshire countryside road cycling route

  • What type of cycling route is the Carmarthenshire countryside road cycling route?

    This is a beautiful route that takes in some of Carmarthenshire's best roads. Everything from bike paths to Welsh mountains. 

  • Where does this route start and finish?

    The route starts and finishes in Carmarthen. 

  • How long is the Carmarthenshire countryside road cycling route route?

    Approximately 95-100km

  • Which major climbs are included?

    The route includes a climb up the Black Mountain.

  • Is this route suitable for beginner cyclists?

    No, it’s more suited to intermediate road cyclists..

  • What scenery can cyclists expect along the route?

    A variety of Welsh country lanes and beautiful Welsh mountains 

Three cyclists riding on a scenic moorland road beneath a cloud-filled sky.

Road cycling in Carmarthenshire, West Wales

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