A little pocket of magic on the Welsh coast, the glorious Penrhyn Gŵyr has to be one of the most dog-friendly locations we've ever been to – and, as serial roamers, that’s saying something!
This beautiful stretch of craggy coastline, hemmed by expansive golden beaches and dotted with mystical castles, and marvellous botanical parks, is the perfect destination for those looking for an active weekend away with their pooch in tow.
From nosing around 12th century fortresses to sniffing out hidden waterfalls, here’s everything we got up to with Lolly on our dog-friendly Gŵyr (Gower) holiday.
Day one: a yurt, a worm and one brilliant beach
Having settled into our cosy, dog-friendly yurt at Three Cliffs Bay Holiday Park the previous evening, we woke bright and early on Saturday morning, keen to get out into the open air and stretch our legs along some of the coastal walking paths Penrhyn Gŵyr is famed for.
We started with a particularly dramatic one: the hike to Worm’s Head. Taking its name from the Norse word ‘wurm’ meaning ‘dragon’, Worm’s Head is a jagged, narrow headland that wriggles out from the western tip of Penrhyn Gŵyr, and can only be reached at low tide via a rocky causeway. Heading across onto the wind-swept ridge, passing rock pools and wild horses, you can see why this place was an inspiration for the Welsh poet Dylan Thomas, who came here to write.
Unlike the young Dylan, who once got stuck on The Worm, we made it safely back onto the mainland, ready to enjoy a spot of lunch at The View, in the village of Rhossili. It’s a perfect pit-stop for dog walkers, with a spacious decked terrace overlooking the sea. Its menu features Welsh-themed small plates for the humans (think Welsh rarebit and laverbread arancini) and 'woof woof sausages' for four-legged friends.
Refuelled, we made the short stroll down from the restaurant to Rhossili Bay Beach. A stretch of coast that has been voted one of the top dog-friendly beaches in Britain by The Times newspaper, and it’s easy to see why. When the tide is low, the vast ribbon of white sand is a dog's dream for zoomies, and it's open all year round without restrictions. Having made the most of having all that space to roam, our thoughts soon turned to our big squishy double bed waiting for us back in our homely yurt.
Day two: ice cream, botanical parks and seaside eateries
We started our Sunday with a visit to Mwmbwls (Mumbles), a pretty fishing village a stick’s throw along the coast from the city of Abertawe (Swansea). We sauntered along the beach-side promenade to Mumbles Pier, an architectural gem dating back to 1898, before heading inland to the 12th century Oystermouth Castle. The towering stone fortress, which has been burnt and besieged throughout history, is a dog-friendly site, and the little crevices and eroded arrow slits were perfect for a game of hide and seek with Lolly.
Next, we made the 10-minute drive along the coast to Clyne Gardens, a Green Flag Award winning botanical park that’s a big draw for nature snappers, thanks to its colourful collection of rhododendrons and azaleas. But there are all manner of plants to spot while wandering the trails here, from giant Elephant Rhubarb to a striking, white-flowered Magnolia Campbellii, which is the tallest recorded magnolia in Britain. When we visited, the park was hosting a live music event, so we took some time to just lay on the grass and take in the atmosphere – a lovely way to spend a sunny afternoon.
We finished our Sunday back at the beach, enjoying a few sun-downers at The Secret Beach Bar & Kitchen, a modern restaurant slap bang on the seafront that plates up an array of enticing meals, from Japanese-style prawns to Mediterranean-inspired lamb kofta, while diners drink in the superb views out across the bay.
Day three: heavenly coffee, haunted castles and a hidden waterfall
Our final day on the holiday began with a slice of cake and a much-needed caffeine fix at Three Cliffs Coffee Shop in preparation for a morning walk to Pennard Castle.
We set off along the cliff top, soaking in the glorious views out across the golden sands of Three Cliffs Bay Beach en route to the historic ruin. Legend has it that the castle was erected overnight by a sorcerer to protect himself from the Normans, and is still haunted by the spirit of a witch who curses anyone who dares sleep there overnight. Lolly, however, didn’t appear to sense any evil presence lurking within, and seemed perfectly content scampering around the surrounding sand dunes.
With a last bit of energy left in the legs, we finished our dog-friendly holiday on Gŵyr with a visit to Penllergare Valley Woods, a Green Flag Award winning horticultural estate that is fittingly picturesque, given it was originally curated in the 19th century by Welshman John Dillwyn Llewelyn, a pioneer of early photography. This woodland walk, with a canopy of green overhead and bluebells peeking out from behind the surrounding tree trunks, was a lovely contrast to our coastal hikes, and even featured a visit to a beautiful secluded waterfall.
We were blown away by the natural beauty of Gŵyr. The area's dog-friendly attractions and accommodation made exploring such a breeze, allowing us to fully enjoy our time with Lolly. If beautiful beaches, peaceful walks and great hospitality are top of your holiday wish list then you certainly won’t be barking up the wrong tree by considering a trip to gorgeous Gŵyr.
For a responsible and enjoyable visit, always remember to follow the Dog Walking Code.
