I’m always accompanied on walks by my rescue dog, Twts, who has been by my side for over a decade, from when we lived together in East Asia to life now back in Wales. I was living and working in Yangzhou, China when I came across her in a street market.

There’s nothing the two of us love more than packing a bag and venturing out for a day of hiking in the Welsh hills and coastlines. Staying local during lockdown gave me the opportunity to revisit some of my cherished childhood walks as well as discovering new and spectacular sights only a stone’s throw away from the capital. Here are some of our favourite dog friendly walks in South Wales which will take you through forests, mountains, beaches and hills with plenty of treats from local artisan producers along the way.

Please be a responsible dog walker and follow the Countryside Code. For safe and happy walks with your dog, and to avoid causing problems for others, Natural Resources Wales also has a Dog Walking Code.  

A woman and a white, furry dog on a hillside.
A big, white furry dog and her owner in a park.

Ffion Llŷr and Twts

Garth Mountain, Cardiff

With incredible scenery and beautiful wildlife, this is where my love for walking began as a little girl on my father’s shoulders. Start your journey at the village of Gwaelod y Garth, following the country road for a little over a mile, until you get to a route marker pointing towards the steep hillside towards the mountain. Make your way to the summit - but keep an eye out for the visiting swallows with their dark metallic blue plumage who spend spring and summer nesting here before returning to South Africa for migration.

When you make it to the peak, where there is an ancient Bronze Age burial site, you’ll have spectacular views of the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) and Cardiff, and as far as the Bristol Channel and Somerset on a clear day. This is a great opportunity to take in the sights and give your furry friend some fresh water. If you’re doing this walk on a Friday or Saturday late afternoon, as you make a descent towards Pentyrch, give Acapela Studio a call and they’ll have an authentic wood fired pizza ready for you on arrival – I’d highly recommend the Rock and Roll. 

The Gwaelod-y-Garth Inn, situated in the village of Gwelod-y-Garth below the Garth mountain is a great option for a rest stop or lunch break. Well-behaved dogs are allowed on leads in the downstairs bar and in the beer garden. There are water bowls, and the bar staff keep treats. The food menu includes vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options plus there’s a menu for children. Four legged dinners can enjoy a dog dinner of pork sausages with gravy. It’s advisable to book in advance.

A big white fluffy dog on a hillside.
View from top of a mountain looking over houses and woodland.

Twts up Y Garth, South Wales

Pink Bay, Porthcawl

Pink Bay is one of the most westerly beaches in Porthcawl and, in my opinion, a real hidden gem. Named after its unique and eye-catching pink stones and pebbles, this golden beach is dog-friendly and is only a short walk from Rest Bay. If you’re driving to get there, head over to the car park at Rest Bay before the surfers arrive, walk alongside the Royal Porthcawl Golf Club on the boardwalk for about 15 minutes and you’ll get to Pink Bay.

It’s worth taking a look at the 7,000 ton wrecked steamship nearby which is a monument to the crew of the Mumbles Lifeboat and SS Samtampa. There are no public amenities and so I’ll always bring a little picnic with me and a treat box for the dog.  It’s a great spot to enjoy a dip in the fresh sea water. I’ll never forget the first time Twts felt sand and sea water against her skin – nothing beats seeing a rescue dog experience pure joy.

Bwlch Mountain, Treorchy

This mountain road links Bridgend and Neath Port Talbot with the Rhondda Valleys and when you make it to the peak, the panoramic views of Treorchy, Cwmparc and the rest of Cwm Rhondda are breathtaking. The route is particularly popular with walkers and cyclists since the climb has been included in one of the UK’s toughest rides, the Dragon Ride.

On the way home, take a pit stop in Tonypandy at award winning ice cream parlour Subzero, previously known as Mr Creemy, which has over 60 different ice cream flavours to try – although I’ll always go for the Nocciola or the Filled Oyster. The family-owned business has been serving ice cream to the valleys for decades and I have fond memories of spending hours sitting by the window of my living room in Tonteg, waiting for the famous Mr Creemy van to make its way down the valley.

A large white fluffy dog licking an ice cream.

Twts enjoying an ice cream

Coed y Wenallt, Cardiff

For a dog walking route that includes an array of wildlife, a display of beautiful flowers and great views of the city, it doesn’t get much better than the ancient woodland of Coed y Wenallt. I tend to start this walk on Caerphilly Mountain where you can drive down the country lane opposite The Traveller’s Rest for about a mile before you come to a car park, which is free of charge. You’ve then got 44 hectares of ancient SSSI woodland to explore. As soon as you arrive, listen out for the Great Spotted Woodpecker in the trees and there’s a good chance you’ll see buzzards, wood warblers and badger trails as you make your way through the forest. In spring, the woodland is awash with a sea of bluebells.

Following the public footbath, I take a loop before heading to Caerphilly Mountain for a pit stop at nearby eco-friendly eatery Caerphilly Mountain Snack Bar. There’s always a welcoming and laid-back atmosphere there and you can enjoy your food at the top of the mountain while taking in the aerial views of the town, surrounding hills and the Cardiff skyline. 

Insole Court and Llandaff Cathedral, Cardiff

Start your walk at Insole Court, a Grade II listed Gothic mansion nestled in the leafy Cardiff suburb of Llandaff. The dog-friendly venue’s grounds have been open to the public since 1946. Dogs are allowed inside Insole Court too. It's accessible to wheelchairs, with two wheelchairs available for visitors to use. There are also baby changing facilities available. Well-behaved dogs on leads are welcome in the gardens and in the gift shop.

Only a 5-minute walk away is Llandaff Cathedral, which boasts some of the finest medieval architecture in Wales. When you’re walking around the nature friendly grounds of the cathedral you may stumble across their new wildlife friendly butterfly garden and, if you’re really lucky, you might spot their two resident Peregrine Falcons. The pair can often be found resting on the pinnacles and gargoyles of the cathedral’s towers and, other times, circling overhead and calling each other as part of their courtship display.

A big white fluffy dog on grass by a cathedral.

Twts at Llandaff Cathedral

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