Explore Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island) the off-grid island in North Wales

Welcome to Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island), where life has barely changed from one century to the next. It’s a place renowned for its secluded mystique and charm. A place to rest and leave the busy world behind and to unwind and experience a deep sense of tranquillity. 

The island is owned by Ymddiriedolaeth Ynys Enlli – Bardsey Island Trust, which protects and promotes it as a place of special scientific, historical and spiritual interest. 

Convenient boat trips make this day excursion one of life’s extraordinary experiences.

Located off the tip of Pen Llŷn (the Llŷn Peninsula) locals speak of the ‘far end of the world’, where the road from Aberdaron rises to Uwchmynydd and the land gives way to the Irish Sea. Ynys Enlli lies two miles further west in the ocean. An island barely a mile and a half in length and half a mile in width, yet one of remarkable presence.

It has its own mountain, which stands 167 metres above sea level. This protects the island from the east, while also concealing much of it from the mainland. When exploring, this makes the place feel even more isolated.

You are entirely off-grid once you arrive; you will find neither electricity nor wi-fi here. Water is sourced from a local well. And as you approach through the strong currents, you will leave distractions firmly behind.

Bardsey Island Boat Trips arrange day trips to the island, departing from Porth Meudwy, just around the headland from Aberdaron.

The journey across the sound takes around twenty minutes, after which you will have approximately four hours to explore the island at your own pace.

Plenty of time to relax, admire the scenery and wildlife, and perhaps enjoy a cup of tea or a light bite in the café at Tŷ Pellaf.  

And upon returning to the mainland, you will feel renewed and reinvigorated, having pressed pause on the wider world for a while.

Enlli attracts thousands of visitors each year. Yet this is nothing new. It has long stood at a crossroads of the seas and people have always been drawn here. From monks to pirates!

The remains of Iron Age huts can still be seen among the mountain’s bracken. There are also the ruins of a thirteenth-century abbey, though an earlier abbey stood here as far back as the sixth century. Throughout the ages, people have made a living here by cultivating the land and fishing the surrounding waters.

But Ynys Enlli is perhaps best known as a destination for pilgrims. Three pilgrimages here were said to equal one to Rome, with the route leading across north Wales to the wooden cross that stood at the heart of the island.

Indeed, some 20,000 saints are said to be buried here. And somehow, it continues to offer a sense of spiritual renewal. A place for silence, peace, and reflection.

Read more: Discover more about Wales' pilgrimage trails, including the North Wales Pilgrim's Way.

Twenty thousand saints, perhaps. Yet today, more than twenty thousand Manx shearwaters inhabit the island. They are joined by a wide variety of other birds. In fact, 332 different species have been spotted here. This is because the island lies on an important migration route for birds during the spring and autumn. Take a walk and watch in amazement as the sky comes alive above you.

Life along the shores and in the surrounding waters is equally abundant. Over two hundred grey seals live among the island’s rocky coves, alongside countless anemones, crabs, and small fish.

Further out at sea, among lobsters, you might glimpse dolphins and porpoises, while the seaweed forests beneath the waves form worlds of their own.

In turn, the island’s mountain is carpeted with thrift, purple heather, and, in places, rare golden lichen. Wherever you go, you are sure to encounter a wide variety of other rare plants and flowers.

Also look out for the signs of farming, which continues a long-standing tradition on the island. From the top of the mountain, the boundaries of the old fields are clearly visible, while grazing cattle were reintroduced here around 20 years ago.

Among the vegetables and fruit grown to make the island sustainable is the famous Enlli apple - a unique variety, possibly first cultivated by monks a thousand years ago.

Admire, too, the solidity of the buildings, which have withstood a hundred and fifty harsh winters and sea winds.  

As well as attracting worshippers and birds, the island has, over the decades, drawn artists of all kinds. They come here to debate, write, draw, sing, think... As a result, Ynys Enlli’s cultural heritage is exceptionally rich.

Each year, the island trust also organises a residency programme for artists. Head over to Llofft Nant for a closer look.

But be sure to turn your gaze to the sky after sunset as well. If you are lucky enough to stay the night, the views of the stars are truly spectacular.

Indeed, in 2023, Ynys Enlli became the first site in Europe to be awarded International Dark Sky Sanctuary status (one of only 16 such sites worldwide).

The island’s mountain shields it from the glow of the mainland, while the nearest bright lights lie some 70 miles away in Dublin. As a result, few places are as dark at night as here. And because of this, few places offer stars that shine so brilliantly.