Surrounded by the lush pastures of the Tywi Valley, the small Carmarthenshire town of Llandeilo appears enveloped in green. On a summer's day, this abundance is even more apparent. Stroll through town and you’ll find bee-friendly beds overflowing with herbs and bright blooms. Peep over the promenade railings to see sloped allotments merging with the countryside beyond. Footpaths lead out of town along the Tywi river, or through the woods to a choice of impressive castles and the grand 18th-century Newton House and Deer Park at Dinefwr.
Getting to Llandeilo
For a car-free trip, travel to Llandelio by train, arriving along the Heart of Wales route from Shrewsbury. Meandering through the hills and valleys of Powys, it’s a beautifully scenic journey of just under three hours.
What to see and do
Llandeilo lies on the edge of a wide river valley dotted with castles and crisscrossed by footpaths. For a short stroll, take the trail beyond the station to the swing bridge. On the other side, there's a lovely shallow pebble beach for paddling, picnicking and stone skimming. The shady trails of Castle Woods lie at the other end of town below Penlan Park.
Those who like a longer route will be in their element, with walks ranging from two to six hours, taking in nearby castles, gardens and stately homes. Dinefwr Park is closest, with Carreg Cennen Castle, Aberglasney Gardens, Golden Grove (Gelli Aur) Country Park and Dryslwyn Castle all within reach.
As you walk, turn your gaze skyward and you’ll almost certainly see the distinctive silhouette of a Red Kite wheeling overhead. The Red Kite Feeding Station is a short drive away, as is the National Botanic Garden of Wales and the hiking trails of the Black Mountains and the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park.
Where to stay
For a stay in town, choose between the central The Cawdor hotel or The Plough. If you’re holidaying with your hound, both properties are dog-friendly. Another great dog-friendly choice in a more rural setting is Pond View Lodges, situated just over a mile out of town with hot tubs, fire pits, TVs and Wi-Fi. For a full digital detox in a gorgeous countryside setting, book a stay at Erwain Escapes, a single wood cabin in a wildflower meadow with a wood burner, sunken bath and fire pit.
If you’re driving, you may prefer to stay out of town at one of several National Trust properties wrapped in the tranquillity of Dinefwr Park Estate. Cariad Cottage and Deer Lodge are characterful and cosy one-bedroom retreats, while Penparc sleeps up to eight and Home Farm House accommodates up to twelve guests. Each property can also accommodate up to two dogs.
Where to eat
Café culture is in full flow in Llandeilo, and there are many places to score a smooth brew, brunch, lunch and patisserie. Pitchfork and Provision boasts a bright and airy space with a courtyard serving baked goods, café fare, and excellent coffee. Diod, who have two locations in the town, and Flows on Market Street are also great spots for pre and post-walk refuels, and The Duffnutts Co specialises in coffee and doughnuts. For an evening meal, head to the oldest pub in town, The White Horse, or the renowned Cawdor Hotel. Alternatively, book a taxi for the twenty-minute drive to Michelin-recommended Y Polyn.
Where to shop
Refreshingly independent without a high street chain store in sight, a procession of artful shops and galleries brings life to the main street and beyond. Pitchfork and Provision Deli, stocked with plush pastries and nibbles, has all the ingredients for a decadent picnic (Penlan Park at the top of town is an ideal spot to spread your picnic blanket). Across the way, Heavenly (by name, and by nature) is entirely dedicated to chocolate.
If you’re self-catering, there are plenty of places to stock the fridge. Market day is on a Friday in Llandeilo, and the high street has a butcher's and bakery (Popty, housed in the former post office building). Y Pantri Glas and Umami specialise in whole foods and sell locally grown fruit and veg alongside organic essentials.
In The Little Welsh Dresser, the owner's passion for interiors and upcycling has led to the creation of a homeware and gift store offering bespoke chalk paint workshops. Tucked away on King Street, opposite pretty St Teilo’s Church, there are more treasures to be found. Peppercorn is brimming over with covetable kitchenware, cookbooks and ingredients. Toast (this nationwide brand started life in Llandeilo) adds to the temptation with its immaculately curated clothing and homeware, and the stylish Ann Goodfellow at Ivy House contemporary art gallery catches the eye.
Somewhat out on a limb, but not to be missed, is The Works Antique Centre on Station Road. Be warned, you could lose a whole afternoon merrily browsing in this labyrinthine antique centre spread across several levels. Next door, Davies & Co showcases the traditional Welsh blanket in a contemporary interiors setting.
