Day one (around 42 miles/68km)
St Davids is Britain’s smallest city. It’s an arty place (painters and potters love it), home to St Davids Cathedral, a building that’s central to Wales’ story. St David, our patron saint, founded a religious community here in the sixth century that evolved into a siren-like cathedral that still draws pilgrims from far and wide.
You don’t have to be spiritually inclined to fall under its spell. This soaring, purple-stoned medieval building, nestling in a grassy hollow, is full of treasures. It stands next to the Bishop’s Palace which, although in ruins, retains echoes of its former splendour in its arched parapets and decorative windows.
St Davids’ quirky character is reinforced by the presence of Doctor Beynon’s Bug Farm, a research and visitor centre where you’ll learn all about the insect world and sustainable agriculture.
Approaching Fishguard, Melin Tregwynt gives Wales’ traditional woollen industry a contemporary twist. Dating from the 17th century, the mill now produces cool new designs and fabrics sold in top shops worldwide.
After Newport take a short detour to Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber, a skeletal burial chamber built around 3–4000BC. It is made of the same Pembrokeshire ‘bluestones’ that somehow found their way to Stonehenge, Britain’s most famous prehistoric monument, almost 200 miles/322km away.
Overnight: find accommodation in Cardigan.
Day two (about 48 miles/77km)
The makeover at Cardigan Castle lead it win the UK’s ‘Restoration of the Year’ in 2017. It’s not your typical castle: ancient walls enclose a handsome Georgian mansion and stylish Cegin 1176 Kitchen, named after the date when Wales’ first eisteddfod was held here.
For Cardigan Bay at its most idyllic, take the side road to Mwnt, a perfect crescent of sand – and perfect picnic spot – topped by cliffs. There's a tiny Grade I listed Holy Cross Church, a medieval sailor's chapel which is dazzling in its coat of whitewash.
The seaside town of New Quay is picturesque and mainly renowned for its golden sandy beaches. It also partly inspired Llareggub, the fabled village brought to life in Dylan Thomas’ masterwork Under Milk Wood. Cardigan Bay is not short of beautiful coves like New Quay. Aberaeron is another. From here to Aberystwyth, the A487 hugs a cliff-backed coast with spectacular, far-reaching views along Cardigan Bay.
Overnight: Find accommodation in Aberystwyth